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Sober SOMMS

Decanter

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June 2025

It sounds like an oxymoron, but they're out there, along with those cutting back. So what can they teach us about responsible drinking?

- MARIANNA HUNT

Sober SOMMS

For those of us who love wine, it can sometimes feel as though your life revolves around it: your social circle, your topics of conversation, your magazine choices. This is even more the case for sommeliers, for whom the act of uncorking a bottle at 11am wouldn't raise an eyebrow.

But if, as studies would have us believe, consumers are drinking less or even stopping entirely, is it beyond imagination that this trend towards moderation might percolate into the world of sommeliers?

Not long ago, the idea of a 'sober sommelier' would have been almost unimaginable, but today, they are real and walk among us.

'There is a trend towards moderation and healthier consumption, particularly among younger generations,' says Federica Zanghirella, vice president of the UK Sommelier Association. 'We see it all the time running courses. Younger people tend to spit, while older generations generally finish the glass, even if it's a tasting.'

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