Chablis 2023

Variable weather made it challenging at times, but a late hot spell came to the rescue, resulting in plenty of good wines for drinking and for keeping. Having tasted almost 400 Chablis 2023 wines, our expert selects 30 of his favourites, along with five from top producers in neighbouring crus

- CHARLES CURTIS MW

As one grower in the region put it, '2023 was easy and not easy...', and: 'It was essential not to be tempted by the excess that nature had offered us.' Indeed, generous yields raised fears of dilution throughout the Chablis region, though in the end, nature provided the raw material for careful growers to produce delicious results.

The prelude to the 2023 growing season in Chablis was warmer and drier than average until March. There were some minor incidents of frost on 28 March and 4 April, but the vines were not very advanced and the impact was minor. Temperatures began to rise in early May and conditions were near perfect during flowering, which had peaked by 9 June, slightly ahead of the average. Because of the favourable conditions at flowering, a very large crop was set.

After flowering, rain showers scattered throughout Chablis from June through to the end of August, ending with a stormy period that brought some hail. The rainfall had two effects it activated mildew, which remained an issue for some; and where rain was less prevalent, some of the vines suffered drought stress.

Hot and dry weather returned in early September, causing sugar levels to jump and acidity to plunge. Choosing the correct harvest date was imperative. Some growers began to pick on 7 September; others waited through that weekend and began on 11 September.

Yields overall were high. According to BIVB regional data, at more than 49.40ohl combined, premier cru and grand cru Chablis volumes were up 16.6% compared to the 2018-2022 five-year average; Chablis and Petit Chablis combined were up 23.2%. The biggest difference, however, was in the regional appellations, such as Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre, where production was 48.1% higher than the average.

STRENGTH ON BOTH SIDES