Bordeaux 2024

To assess this weather-hit vintage, the en primeur tastings in April became vital. Here, our Bordeaux editor gives her early insight, ahead of the full analysis and her pick of recommended wines that will follow in our next issue and on Decanter Premium

- GEORGIE HINDLE

A 'war' is how Château Cheval Blanc’s Pierre-Olivier Clouet described the 2024 vintage. It was never going to be easy when the growing season started as the wettest in recent memory, and the years ending in '4' don't have the best reputation – if you follow those rules in Bordeaux.

It’s an uneven vintage that has its highs and lows but it’s certainly not a disaster. 'Better than expected' doesn’t exactly heap praise on the 2024s, but it could have been much worse, and no doubt would have been 20 years ago.

Mildew hit historically early and the pressure didn’t let up from there, with 31 treatments needed at some organic estates; a little more than 1.5cm of rain will wash a treatment off the vines to which it has been applied. Rain disrupted both flowering and fruit set, posing all sorts of problems for even ripening, but then the summer was the third-driest in the last 20 years.

July was mostly dry, but overcast and not overly sunny; however, August was hotter, with more sunshine hours, which went some way to counter the soggy soils and induce a degree of hydric stress. But then more rain arrived in early September and again towards the end of the month, with cool temperatures throughout, bringing low sugar levels, dilution and botrytis risks (a challenge not faced in 20 years at some estates). Sorting of the fruit was key and those who could afford it made strict selections for their grands vins.

Straight, focused & fresh