Taking the Reins

From gauchos and mountain guides to chefs and winemakers, the women of Argentina have created luxurious travel experiences that welcome you into their community.

- CHRISTINE CHITNIS

First, I have a confession. I've never been a horse girl, and no amount of riding has convinced me otherwise. That is, until I meet the Palma siblings, who run Estancia Los Chulengos, a historic ranch two hours southwest of Mendoza, Argentina, in the foothills of the Andes. Sisters Ana and Manuela Palma are the image of gaucho chic, handling their horses with enviable confidence. With their tailored riding pants tucked into worn, handmade leather boots, and their perfectly crisp white linen shirts, they look like a Ralph Lauren ad come to life. If riding Pisco, the stubborn old gelding I was paired with, would give me even an ounce of their style, I was prepared to gallop over the mountains and into the setting sun.

History runs deep here-the estancia has been in the Palma family for over 250 years-and the original bones of the property are still intact, although the interiors have been refurbished with artisanal touches like colorful woven textiles, cowhide and sheepskin rugs, and carved wooden furniture.

My trip here had an express purpose: With the help of Wild Terrains, a women-only small-group travel company, I had resolved to connect with the female creatives who are reshaping Argentina. From the buzzy capital city of Buenos Aires to the glaciers of Patagonia, the country tops many a traveler's bucket list. But lurking beneath the beauty is a pervasive culture of machismo and historically elevated rates of violence against women, coupled with political turmoil and economic hardship.