Through the Tankwa, one stop at a time

The Tankwa Karoo is a harsh world that punishes foolishness, but spend a few days in this arid landscape and you'll meet the best people.

- Cyril Klopper

It's scorching outside - 44°C, according to the bakkie's gauge and mirages shimmer restlessly on the horizon while cicadas buzz in nervous unison. What are we doing here, on gravel roads that devour tyres for breakfast and in a place where water is more precious than gold? Join us on a journey to discover how the Visagie, Pieterse, and Shephard families along with a dozen others made a living on 55 farms before the land was consolidated into a national park.

We depart from Ceres, just under two hours' drive from Cape Town. Fill up your tank and follow the tarred R46 regional road over Theronsberg Pass, then Hottentotskloof Pass. Eventually, the R46 veers sharply to the right, but we continue straight on the R355 dirt road, which cuts a crooked line through the Tankwa Karoo.

The landscape around you is unforgiving and intimidating. That's why our first stop, the Tankwa Padstal, is a welcome oasis in this dusty world.

The Tankwa Padstal was established in 2011 by Hein and Susan Lange. While they weren't the first city dwellers to move here, their artistic approach to the farm stall is unique and inspiring. Today, the place is synonymous with Karoo hospitality, and the Lange couple's role in making the region popular cannot be underestimated.

Sit down for breakfast (R120-R140) or a burger and chips (R140-R160). There's also free WiFi, so you can catch up on your WhatsApp messages. The farm stall is open daily except Wednesdays from 09:00 to 17:00, while the bar is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.