"There weren't just a few; there were hundreds"

Texas brown tarantulas in the USA

- BY TAMARA MC

I HAD COME TO BIG BEND National Park, Texas, for the solitude, the sweeping desert views and the hope of spotting a black bear. It was a six-hour drive from El Paso airport, a journey through vast swathes of West Texas, where the open road stretched endlessly ahead. By the time we got to the park, the sun was already starting to dip behind the rugged peaks of the Chisos Mountains. Eager to get in a hike before dark, we set off on the Lost Mine Trail, one of Big Bend’s most popular hikes. The trail, 7.5km out and back, winds through a rugged landscape of desert shrubs, sheer rock faces and towering peaks. Despite Big Bend’s size - it spans more than 3,200km² - it’s one of the least visited national parks in the USA and you can hike for hours without seeing a soul. It’s what makes the park special - a wilderness where nature plays by its own rules.