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Farm Fare

Saveur

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Summer 2019

A midday meal ritual for Korean growers is inspiring one California cook.

- Chaney Kwak

Farm Fare

IN A WATERCOLOR PAINTING TITLED SIMPLY Saecham, 18th-century Korean artist Kim Hongdo portrays shirtless men seated on the ground, sinking chopsticks into huge bowls of rice and tipping back cups of makkoli, a fermented, lightly effervescent rice drink with the alcohol content of beer. Though modernization has made the practice scarcer today, similar scenes still play out in parts of the Korean countryside. Literally translated as “in-between break,” the communal meal known as saecham brings farmers together for quick but hearty sustenance in the midmorning and late afternoon. Chef Michael Kim of Maum—a 16-seat tasting-menu restaurant in Palo Alto, California—wants to introduce this daily ritual to an American audience.

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Our All-Time Best Recipes

If anyone should know if a recipe’s a keeper, it’s the person tasked with making sense of the original instructions—from the far reaches of Sri Lanka, say, or a famous chef who measures nothing. This might explain why many test kitchen staffers named favorites that their predecessors had tested and recommended. (Though a couple put forth recipes they developed themselves.) And while Saveur never shies away from the oddball authentic ingredient, the fare on the following pages is the stuff we cook at home, over and over again. Consider it global comfort food.

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Jamaican Jerk Marinade - Fire And Spice

Jamaican jerk is more than a marinade—it’s a smoky, flame-grilled cooking style that uses the best ingredients of its home island.

time to read

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