कोशिश गोल्ड - मुक्त
Climbing To A Better Future
Climbing
|Issue 151
 
 This is Kulusuk, East Greenland. I’m here with four mountain-guide friends to teach local kids how to rock climb. East Greenland is the narrow north-to-south strip of land that lies east of the Greenland ice sheet, which covers 75 percent of the world’s largest island. East Greenland is home to about 5,500 of the island nation’s 56,000 residents, and it’s one of the most beautiful places on Earth. Serrated peaks jut out of the ocean where glaciers grind jagged outcroppings into smooth, rocky shelves then calve into thousands of icebergs that float slowly past. A smattering of brightly painted houses grips the rocky shoreline in protected harbors.
In 2013, Leifur Örn Svavarsson, Ólafur Júliusson, and Jón Gauti Jónsson, all mountain guides from Iceland and employees of Icelandic Mountain Guides (IMG), came to East Greenland to tackle alpine first ascents deep amid the region’s unclimbed peaks. Bad weather trapped them in Kulusuk, home to the only airport for hundreds of miles and also IMG’s local expedition base. While they waited, Leifur, one of the owners of IMG, had a brainstorm. “The towns of Amassalik Fjord are surrounded by beautiful nature,” he observed, “but the kids here don’t really engage with it. Kids are on their own, with almost no parental oversight. They sleep until noon, stay up late, and they just don’t know any possibilities for a better life.” Leifur thought that bolting some sport climbs near town then teaching kids to climb might give the children something to do.
Three years, 20 routes, and four sectors later,
यह कहानी Climbing के Issue 151 संस्करण से ली गई है।
हजारों चुनिंदा प्रीमियम कहानियों और 10,000 से अधिक पत्रिकाओं और समाचार पत्रों तक पहुंचने के लिए मैगज़्टर गोल्ड की सदस्यता लें।
क्या आप पहले से ही ग्राहक हैं? साइन इन करें
Climbing से और कहानियाँ
Climbing
Next-Gen Visualization
IMAGINE ADAM ONDRA lying on his back, eyes squeezed shut in concentration, while a physiotherapist holds his heel in space, helping him visualize and strengthen his body specifically for a move.
3 mins
Issue 157
Climbing
Pink Rain
Pink Rain
1 mins
Issue 159
Climbing
Southern Super Nova
Thirty-plus Years Ago, Driven First Ascensionist Rob Robinson Discovered the Tennessee Wall. In His Career, He’s Authored Hundreds of New Routes and Dramatically Expanded Chattanooga Climbing.
9 mins
Issue 150
 
 Climbing
Green Ice
The Comprehensive Ice and Mixed Climbing of Vermont.
9 mins
Issue 150
 
 Climbing
New Dawn
On November 21, 2016, after an eight-day push, 23-year-old Czech climber Adam Ondra topped out the 32-pitch Dawn Wall (VI 5.14d) on Yosemite’s El Capitan, a line many consider the hardest free big wall on the planet. With eight pitches of 5.14 and 12 pitches of 5.13, the route garnered mainstream-media attention in January 2015 when Tommy Caldwell, who had put seven years of work into exploring and freeing the route, and Kevin Jorgeson nabbed the first free ascent after 19 days on the wall. Ondra, who had never been to the Valley, trad climbed, or been on a big wall before, nabbed the second ascent, thanks in part to his support team of Pavel Blazek and Heinz Zak.Although Ondra has ticked some of the planet’s hardest sport climbs and boulder problems, critics assumed the experience-driven discipline of big wall free climbing would shut him down. Despite success that seemingly came easy, conditions, skin, and the route’s pure technical difficulty posed challenges along the way. Caldwell, Jorgeson, and Ondra spoke to us about the nuts, bolts, and near-invisible micro-crimps of this historic ascent.
5 mins
Issue 151
 
 Climbing
Climbing To A Better Future
Against a background of 10,000-foot peaks, icebergs, and the vast Atlantic Ocean, local Inuit kids in East Greenland are growing up stuck somewhere between traditional ways of life and the quickly encroaching modern world. Communities struggle with record suicide, alcoholism, and abuse rates. Four Icelanders and an American asked the question: Can rock climbing help?
21 mins
Issue 151
Climbing
Kodak Courage
Are climbers taking more chances for the camera?
10 mins
Issue 154
 
 Climbing
It's Not A Free Solo, It's A Highball, DAD!
OH. MY. GOD. Stop worrying! You and mom are such babies. I’m not going to “kill myself climbing without a rope” because that doesn’t even make sense. I’m a boulderer. You can’t boulder with a rope because then it wouldn’t be bouldering. Roped climbing is for losers: Do I look like I’d hangdog for an hour wearing orange pants and doing jazz hands so I can climb five more feet to the next bolt and then do it again? I know you saw Alex Honnold on 60 Minutes and suddenly you think you know everything about climbing. But, uh, actually? You don’t know anything. What I do is called HIGHBALL BOULDERING, not FREE SOLOING, and it’s completely different.
3 mins
Issue 154
 
 Climbing
"Cliff Camping": The Latest Bucket-List Tick
WHILE WE CLIMBERS only camp hanging on a wall when we have to, for many in the non-climbing public, portaledge camping ticks a box on their bucket list.
3 mins
Issue 155
 
 Climbing
The Freerider
What it took to free solo El Capitan
10 mins
Issue 155
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