HAUTE-VIENNE

Steeped in tradition, this unspoiled département offers an authentic taste of rural life, says Helen Parkinson

- Helen Parkinson

Driving through Haute-Vienne, signposts bearing a crowned lion with an arrow through its chest become a familiar sight. The rearing beast marks the Route Richard Coeur de Lion, a series of landmarks linked to the chivalrous king. Although no suit of armour or horse is needed to tackle it today, the Route makes for a fittingly historic way to discover this fascinating département.

Precious porcelain

At the heart of bucolic Limousin, Haute-Vienne is a beloved destination for both holidaymakers and expats. Its handsome préfecture, Limoges, is France’s porcelain capital, home to esteemed brands such as Royal Limoges and Haviland. The discovery of the mineral kaolinite near the city in the 18th century catalysed the industry, and its status was elevated further when Louis XIV purchased one of the factories in order to produce porcelain for the royal court. See some elegant designs up close at the Musée National Adrien Dubouché in Limoges.