Restorative MALTA

Kerry Walker retreats to the ancient walled city of Mdina and discovers a fresh take on wellness

- KERRY WALKER AND ALICIA MILLER

The first golden light of morning spills across the hillsides, illuminating a castle, dome and the ramparts of Mdina. At this quiet hour, I feel like I have the whole place to myself. Whereas later in the day, the bourgainvillea-draped limestone streets will be cluttered with tourists, early in the morning, Malta's ancient capital - often known as the Silent City - is certainly living up to its nickname.

Mdina stars

Most visitors to Malta flock to buzzing capital Valletta, on the north coast, or the lively resort of St Julian's next door, but I've decided to take in this Mediterranean favourite from a slower angle. Towards the hilly interior of the island, 4,000-year-old Mdina - Malta's former capital - has been shaped by Bronze Age settlers, Romans, Phoenicians, Arabs and the Knights of St John over the millennia. It's as picturesque as a postcard, but its popularity has gone through the roof recently, particularly since it starred in Game of Thrones, which means it is often busy. But make your base here or nearby, and you can explore its charms during quieter hours.

Before the day trippers have arrived, I take time in the morning light to explore its atmospheric tangle of alleyways, honey-stone palazzi and plazas in the dusky blues.