HONG KONG A feast for the senses

From vibrant street food to high-end eateries, Charlotte Richards discovers a dining scene as vibrant and multi-faceted as the city itself

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If you want to get your bearings in Hong Kong, you need to see it from above. And there are plenty of opportunities to do just that, whether you're sipping cocktails in a glamorous rooftop bar or taking the historic Peak Tram, which whisks visitors to 396 metres above sea level.

On a viewing platform surrounded by rainforest, you can look down the vertiginous, shiny skyscrapers to the streets and bustling harbour below.

My first breathtaking view was when I opened the hotel room curtains on the 115th floor of the Hong Kong Ritz Carlton. Situated in mainland Hong Kong, in the area known as Kowloon, the Ritz Carlton tops one of those very skyscrapers, looking on to the bustling streets, mountains and forest of Hong Kong Island itself.

Layered history

Hong Kong's contradictions are what makes it such a compelling place to visit. In the five days I was there I found ample time to explore the frenetic city - public transport is excellent - while also taking ferries to discover ancient traditions on the smaller islands, and even a very pleasant trip to the beach.