A FAREWELL × TO FLAVOURS

FROM CUTLETS AND RAILWAY MUTTON CURRY IN DINING CARS TO THE UNREMARKABLE FARE AVAILABLE TODAY, THE JOURNEY OF FOOD ON THE INDIAN RAILWAY IS FASCINATING

- PUSHPESH PANT

THERE WAS A TIME LONG, long ago when legendary trains like Kalka Mail, Punjab Mail, Frontier Mail, Howrah Express, and Toofan Mail crisscrossed the subcontinent, ferrying passengers and freight from piers and docks to the hinterland and border outposts.

My earliest memories of train meals revive the nostalgia of overnight journeys from Lucknow to Kathgodam in the early 1950s. Seekh kebab and roomali roti were brought by a favourite nephew from Sadar (a town and a tehsil in Uttar Pradesh's Pratapgarh district) just before the Nainital Express steamed out of Charbagh Station. As the train picked up speed, we settled down to enjoy our nawabi repast. Mother, a vegetarian, carried a small tiffin containing puri, dry aloo sabzi and something sweet for all of us. The train stopped at Bhojipura (Bareilly district) just after daybreak for a second steam engine to be attached at the rear end to help it negotiate the steep incline ahead. The ever-reliable Udai Ram could be easily spotted in his red and gold livery and smart turban, deftly balancing in one hand the tray carrying the hot breakfast father had preordered—buttered toast, eggs and a pot of well-brewed tea.