SUCH AND SUCH

More is more at the sequel to Pilot – and Canberra dining is all the better for it, writes MATTY HIRSCH.

- MATTY HIRSCH

QUICK LOOK

220 London Cct, Canberra, ACT andsuchandsuch.com

CHEF Malcolm Hanslow and Nick Peterson

OPENING HOURS Lunch Wed-Fri Dinner Mon-Sat

PRICE GUIDE $$$

BOOKINGS Recommended.

VERDICT Fun with a capital F.

Identifying a through line on Such and Such’s menu isn’t easy. A meal might begin with stellar sourdough flatbread that’s more like a crumpet, given glossy sheen from a smear of extra-sharp toum. From there it could zig to a bowl of crunchy fried school prawns and cashews, coated in a tingly “666 spice” mix that’s not quite as demonic as it sounds. Or zag to hibachi-grilled beef intercostals and enoki mushrooms designed to be wrapped in a sesame leaf kissed with perky miso sambal.