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Gourmet Traveller

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July 2025

Japan's drinks culture is steeped in heritage and nuance, writes SAMANTHA PAYNE.

- SAMANTHA PAYNE

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AS MUCH ABOUT RESTRAINT AND REFINEMENT AS IT IS ABOUT innovation, the Japanese drinks industry is centred around a handful of producers that embody that balance better than most. From Kenbishi’s sake brewed using centuries-old methods to Suntory’s world-famous Yamazaki distillery shaping the global perception of Japanese whisky, these names resonate well beyond their local regions. Shochu giant Hombo Shuzo and umeshu producer Houraisen round out the list, each offering a glimpse into a distinct facet of Japan’s drinking traditions. These aren’t just products - they're philosophies in liquid form, and each sip tells an intensely regional, deeply intentional story.

SAKE: TIME CAPSULE IN A BOTTLE

Founded in 1505, Kenbishi is Japan’s fourth-oldest sake brewery and one of its most distinctive. Faithful to pre-modern brewing practices (before rice polishing and refrigeration), Kenbishi uses the traditional Yamahai method – an extended, wild-yeast fermentation that results in oxidative, complex styles built for ageing. Their water source in Nada, famed for its “hard” mineral content, intensifies the fermentation and produces sake with depth and dry structure. While sake produced in modern methods might only stay fresh for days or weeks after opening, this traditional process means Kenbishi sake can remain vibrant for months. The result is a sensory link to samurai-era Japan and a reminder that minimal intervention can be a form of quiet rebellion.

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Cette histoire est tirée de l'édition July 2025 de Gourmet Traveller.

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