Why China Can't Seem to Shake Off Its Food Scandals

From toxic milk to lead-tainted school meals, China's history of food safety controversies points to systemic weaknesses that need to be addressed.

- Tan Dawn Wei

Nearly two decades since melamine-tainted milk sickened nearly 300,000 children and killed six babies in China, the country is facing yet another food scandal that has re-ignited public outrage and resurrected deep fears over its food safety standards.

Earlier this month in the city of Tianshui in north-western Gansu, it emerged that more than 250 children had been poisoned after their kindergarten fed them food colored with toxic powdered pigments to make it look more appetizing.

Investigations pointed to egregious human error: Cooks in the school's kitchen had used industrial-grade dyes to brighten buns, corn cobs and cakes. The principal had apparently wanted to boost enrollment at the privately run kindergarten and had promoted pictures of the food on social media.

The widespread anger intensified after investigations exposed cover-ups and a lack of oversight on multiple levels: Hospital and local health officials were found to have falsified lab test results to show lower lead levels in blood samples taken from the children; local education officials were said to have accepted bribes from the unlicensed school's investor; and the local health authorities had tried to obstruct the probe.

Of all the 251 children and 34 staff at the school, 247 students and 28 employees had abnormal lead levels. Food samples tested contained lead that was more than 2,000 times over the national safety standard.

At least six people have been arrested and nearly 20 are under investigation, while the Gansu government vowed rectification. Yet for many Chinese parents, these gestures are cold comfort, coming one scandal after another. Many demanded answers as they protested outside the school, videos circulating on social media showed.

More broadly, the episode has revived a question that has plagued the country for at least two decades: Why is China unable to break free from the grip of periodic food safety crises?