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The Evolving Accent

The Morning Standard

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May 01, 2025

Delectable Delhi

- Vernika Awal Is a food writer who is known for her research-based articles through her blog ‘Delectable Reveries’

The Evolving Accent

On a sun-drenched Delhi afternoon, we glided beneath the leafy canopy of Lodhi Road, where time seems to slow beneath the embrace of ancient trees. Our destination lay at the end of this dappled route—Indian Accent, a name that resonates across continents as the vanguard of modern Indian cuisine. Though barely 15 years young, it carries the gravitas of a culinary legacy, having redefined what Indian food could be—with flair, finesse, and fearless innovation.

For years, the restaurant's soul bore the unmistakable imprint of chef Manish Mehrotra, the visionary who charted its pioneering course. But seasons shift, and so do chapters. Today, that luminous legacy has been entrusted to his longtime protégé, chef Shantanu Mehrotra, a craftsman who once stood beside the master and now stands tall in his own right. For the past year, he has quietly helmed the revered kitchen—first honouring the blueprint drawn up alongside chef Manish, and now, gently steering it into a new era.

With a newly unveiled tasting menu—his own composition, rich in nuance and bold in imagination—chef Shantanu steps into the spotlight. Together with his devoted team, he carries forward the story of Indian Accent, not as a repetition, but as a graceful evolution—one that honours its roots even as it reaches for new horizons.

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