How ancient Romans used public baths for pleasure

STANDING in the vast ruins of the Baths of Caracalla in Rome, hundreds of gulls circle above. Their haunting cries echo voices from 1800 years ago.

- PETER EDWELL

Today, the bare shell of what was one of Rome's largest bath complexes mostly sits empty, occasionally playing host to opera performances.

But what were the baths of ancient Rome actually like back then? And why were the Romans so into public bathing? While living in Rome for almost a year, I noticed the remains of ancient baths (thermae in Latin) everywhere.

Virtually every emperor built them, and by the middle of the fourth century there were 952 public baths in the city. The largest were the baths built by the emperor Diocletian (284-305). Around 3000 people a day could bathe at this 13-hectare complex.

These baths, like most, contained a room (the caldarium) heated by air ducts in the walls and floors. The floors were so hot special sandals were worn. Another room leading from it was milder (the tepidarium), before bathers entered the frigidarium, which contained a cold pool. A 4000-square-metre outdoor swimming pool was the central feature.

Public baths also often featured gymnasiums, libraries, restaurants and exercise yards.

The philosopher Seneca, also an adviser to the emperor Nero, lived above a bath complex around 50 CE.

He described the sounds of people “panting in wheezy and high-pitched tones” as they lifted weights. Others plunged into swimming tanks with a loud splash.

Shop owners selling food yelled out the prices of their wares. Some sang loudly for their own pleasure in the bathroom.