Thunder, lightning and rain in Angkor Wat

Visiting Cambodia in the monsoon reveals unexpected joys and the country’s foundational links with water

- Nandini Nair

The river that runs by Angkor Wat was made over 1,000 years ago.

(ISTOCKPHOTO)

The appearance of dragonflies swerving at eye level foretells rain in Cambodia.

When we travel through the country in late September to early October, swarms of yellow-striped flutterers, which resemble bumble bees, with their distinct yellow and black stripes, seemingly flattened and pinned against diaphanous wings dart around us. The dragonflies flourish in the rainy season (from May to October) and while they themselves are objects of beauty, their presence tells both of Cambodia's ecosystem and beliefs.

In the rains, pools fringe the roads, creating the perfect breeding ground and ensuring abundant food. Dragonflies wouldn't frequent a stagnant smelly swamp, as they prefer clean water, making them “natural bioindicators of a healthy ecosystem” showing us that most parts of Cambodia are rich in clean air, flowing water and verdant landscapes at this time of the year.

We see numerous dragonflies as rain is our whimsical companion through our nine-day holiday in Cambodia, which takes us to the temple city Siem Reap, the island Koh Rong, and the capital Phnom Penh. While most tourists choose the drier months of November to March, the country bestows upon us its own wet charms.

The winding roads in Siem Reap were often empty for miles, except for our tuk-tuk chugging past paddy fields and roadside stores selling grilled meat. With most rural houses built on stilts, people went about the business of life, even while walking through muddy knee-high water just to reach their homes. In endless puddles children sloshed around, with a few trying to catch fish. We often passed bridges where the naga or eternal snake formed the balustrade. These snakes are associated with water and reminded us of the land’s many water connections.