Sip, savour and soak in Czech beer traditions

Few places take beer as seriously—or as creatively—as Czechia, proving how one drink can shape a culture

- Shuvajit Payne

A glass of original Budějovický Budvar; and braised beef cheeks in dark beer sauce.

“Na zdraví!” Glasses of golden Budvar lager clink loudly to roars of a toast - meaning “To health!”-in a village pub in South Bohemia. Regulars are quick to remind me that this is the original Budweiser, brewed in České Budějovice since 1895, not the American namesake. The town, historically also known as Budweis, has been a brewing centre since the 13th century, and the original Budějovický Budvar brewery remains in production to this day.

Being state-owned, this iconic brewery shares its yeast with other microbreweries. I visit one such family owned establishment in Frymburk, where the brewmaster, David Krol, shares more beer wisdom. “Bohemian beer depends on four key ingredients: soft water, yeast, malt made from barley that gives the body and colour to the beer, and Saaz hops to lend the characteristic bitterness and aroma.” Budvar, slightly sweeter and more malty, is just one of this region’s contributions to global beer culture. The other time-honoured one is the 1842 pale lager from the city of Plzeň, which became the world’s “pilsner” template: light in colour, balanced in malt sweetness and hop bitterness, and defined by its crisp finish.