Explore Yerevan's street flavours

Smoky meats, blistered breads and flaky sweets steal the show in the Armenian capital

- Anita Rao Kashi

A few minutes south of the city centre in Yerevan, Armenia’s capital, tree-lined avenues fall away and eye-catching pink architecture gives way to stark Soviet-style buildings.

None are as plain and squat as the GUM Market, a sprawling covered market that looks quite boring from the outside. Inside, however, is another story. Once through the door, it is a humungous hall, and an assault on the senses. Rows and rows of colourful dried fruits, heaps of fresh produce, pickled vegetables and preserves, cheeses, fresh baked breads and sweets stretch out in all directions. The place is a microcosm of Armenian food.

Located at the intersection of empires, Yerevan's avenues bear the vestiges of those that passed through it—from the Ottoman and Persian empires to most recently the Russians. From these passing cultures have come layers of spices, stuffed vegetables, grilled meats, preserves and fermented foods. All these layers are visible at the GUM Market. Here's a flavourful food guide to Yerevan: