Walking a thin line

Size zero is again a matter of debate globally. But Indian ramps are still symbols of inclusivity

- VAISHALI DAR

Earlier this year, the Schiaparelli show in Paris was the talk of the town for experimenting with trompe l'oeil, a technique that avant-garde Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli had often incorporated into her designs to create a realistic illusion, making it appear that an object or detail is three-dimensional when it is actually flat.

With bigger shoulders, neoprene padding at the hips for exaggeration, embellished with draped pearl grey duchesse satin, and embroidered with flowers, the technique created a 3D effect on the models' bodies—just to create an hourglass figure, a recurring theme on the ramp for ultra-thin, shrunk bodies.

If you're an avid follower of the fashion industry, you would have noticed a strong (and worrying) comeback of extreme thinness, with size-zero models strutting the ramp globally. As per data from the Vogue Business Autumn/Winter 2025 size inclusivity report, of the 8,703 looks in 198 shows and presentations, 97.7% were straight-size (US 0-4), 2% were mid-size (US 6-12) and only 0.3% were plus-size (US 14+).

Plus-size and midsize models are also known as 'curve models'. The autumn/winter figures were worse than the representation in the spring shows, which took place in September and October and included only 0.8% plus-size looks.