CAST IN THE SAME MOULD

A look at how Chanel's capsule Couture O'Clock collection pays tribute to founder Coco Chanel's haute couture legacy

- Preetika Mathew

Earlier this year, at Chanel's Watches and Wonders 2024 ,booth in Geneva, a simple yet powerful display set the tone for everything one could expect from the brand. A single, floor-to-ceiling golden needle placed at the centre of the monochromatic booth showcased not just the theme of its novelties, but veritably tied everything that was displayed there, together. It pointed to the new Couture O'Clock collection, a capsule line of timepieces inspired by the aesthetic of founder Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel's atelier, and the tools used and craftsmanship displayed by her seamstresses. Their everyday work instruments-couture busts, thimbles, safety pins, needles, measuring tapes, and more are the motifs interpreted in a range of delightful watches.

Understandably, most legacy fashion brands who are also seriously invested in watchmaking draw deeply from their heritage. Hermès's equestrian connect finds representation in its watches, just like the bee motif does in Gucci timepieces, a symbol associated with the brand since the 1970s. Chanel has toed the same line. The case of its Première collection of watches evokes the stopper of the Chanel N°5 fragrance bottle, and the bracelet, interlaced with leather, the chain of Chanel handbags; its Code Coco line features an iconic clasp and a bracelet with a quilted motif.

Add to that the abundant use of black and white as colour themes, and motifs like camellias, pearls, the lion, and more-all things Coco Chanel favoured-in its watches time and time again. This year, however, the Watch Creation Studio, led by Arnaud Chastaingt, chose to highlight the heritage of the brand by interpreting the work that goes on in its Rue Cambon ateliers in Paris. The building at 31, Rue Cambon, functioned as Coco Chanel's personal residence, a boutique, and a couture atelier.