Delicious drupes

THERE is a peculiar magic in growing almonds. However often you see their soul-lifting, frost-risking flush of white blossom and however often you collect a basket of homegrown almonds, it's hard to lose the sense of glorious impossibility, that somehow you've cheated geography and climate.

- Mark Diacono

California in the US-home to most of the world's almonds-is a fair climatic cry from the UK, but, with the right varieties, care in location and a little help at flowering time, basketfuls of nuts (or drupes, strictly speaking) are very possible. Let me not pull the wool over anyone's eyes; almonds are marginal, nuts are unlikely to be a guaranteed yearly harvest, but, when they come, the pleasure-and the flavour-is hard to beat.

AUK summer, even this patchy one, is plenty long enough to ripen almonds; the pinch point is in spring. The flowers are susceptible to late frosts, so choosing late-flowering varieties is crucial, as is lining up all the variables in their favour. A well-drained, moisture-retentive soil of reasonably neutral pH, avoidance of frost pockets, good shelter from the strongest winds and a sunny site are all important. Almonds are hardy down to about -15°C, so bear that in mind with location and be prepared to wrap young trees in fleece during colder spells.

A hive or two will really help: the spring weeks when flowers appear often coincide with few pollinators and a population of bees emerging from a sleepy winter can make all the difference to your chances.