Pub perfection

From top-notch bar snacks to superior service, discover the UK's best watering holes

- TONY NAYLOR

olive loves all pubs, whether it's a tiny micro stocked with stellar craft ales or a scrubbed table gastro spot serving staggering food-and we're particularly fond of those which deliver both under one roof. Democratic, relaxed, endlessly flexible, the best pubs are welcoming, self-contained worlds we can lose ourselves in. But what makes a great one? olive has been giving that some serious thought.

A SENSE OF PLACE

Ideally, pubs embody their locality, and few chefs embrace Kent's larder like Billy Stock at the historic Rose Inn. Daily blackboard menus accommodate a rich variety of local produce - some from neighbours around Wickhambreaux's village green - in plates of violet artichoke and white bean gratin or crispy lamb and seaweed mayo. Many peripherals (bread from Gilda micro-bakery, wine from Simpsons and Westwell) originate in the Garden of England, too. Mains from £19; theroseinn.pub.

SERIOUS PIES

Using an antique rolling pin and local meats (butchered in-house and cooked bone-in, fats rendered for the pastry), Stosie Madi and Kathy Smith at Lancashire's Parkers Arms have forged a formidable reputation for their handmade pies, which include curried mutton and favourites such as creamy chicken and wild garlic. Three courses, £45; parkersarms.co.uk.

GORGEOUS INTERIORS