NoLo 2.0

It’s nearly 10 years since Seedlip arrived on the drinks scene, heralding the dawn of no- and low-alcohol spirits. As more products join the category every year, we take a look at the new breed of spiritless sipper

- NEIL RIDLEY

What a difference a decade makes, eh? Pop into pretty much any pub, restaurant or bar today and you’d be hard pressed to find one that doesn’t offer at least one dedicated low- or no-alcohol option on its menu. It’s a far cry from the days when choices for anyone not drinking alcohol were largely limited to sugary soft drinks, a plain old lime and soda, or, if you dared to be different, a tonic water with a few dashes of bitters thrown in.

NoLo has become big business indeed. Since the introduction of the unquestionably groundbreaking Seedlip in 2015 – the botanical ‘spirit’ that was first developed by entrepreneur Ben Branson – the category has rapidly expanded in almost every direction, with mindful alternatives appearing in most spirits categories, from gin through to rum.

According to industry analyst IWSR, the category growth rate (in terms of volume) is expected to sit at 7% year-on-year until 2026, with 41% of current NoLo consumers choosing no or low options on certain occasions, but opting for full-strength on others. This demonstrates the potential flexibility of the different products, as well as consumers’ acceptance of a more moderated lifestyle.

SUBSTITUTE OR SOMETHING NEW?

However, one conundrum I’ve encountered – a conundrum that refuses to go away – concerns the authenticity and ease of use of the new raft of NoLo products. Many are specifically modelled to mimic existing flavour profiles in spirits, a premise that brings its own set of R&D challenges, whereas others aim to move the dial in a completely different direction, but are perceptibly more challenging to use at home.