THE PORTUGUE WAY

On Portugal's border with Spain, Vicki Lacy encounters pilgrim trails, hot springs, historic forts and ancient aqueducts

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Last autumn we embarked on a campervan adventure through Portugal, a country largely unknown to us, despite spending several winters touring its neighbour, Spain. There is free movement between them now, but once upon a time, the two countries clashed often over territory. Our trajectory, dictated by the weather, cycling opportunities, and old-fashioned ‘sticking a pin in a map’, took us through several border towns that once defended Portugal from its Spanish nemesis.

River border

Our first town, Valença in northwest Portugal, has kept watch across the River Minho, a natural border between the two countries, for centuries. During the 17th-century Restoration War, in which Portugal fought for independence from Spain, Spanish attacks revealed that Valença’s medieval walls were no match for advances in artillery. A star-fort was built, the design vastly enhancing its defensive capabilities, with the medieval town protected within its walls.

From our área para autocaravanas, close to the banks of the Minho, we walked to the Portas da Coroada, one of the entrances into the fortifications. Inside the labyrinth of characterful streets, tourists were busy scouring the many textile shops. We retreated onto the quieter outer walls to appreciate the views and military engineering brilliance of that era.

The next day, we cycled west along the very cyclable Ecopista do Rio Minho to Caminha, where the Minho empties into the Atlantic. The out-and-back trail mostly hugs the riverbank, and we passed more forts along the way. The Camino Portugués follows the route too, and all morning we greeted pilgrims as they made their way towards Valença and their bridge crossing of the Minho into Spain and onward journey to Santiago de Compostela.

Hot springs