PLANE SAILING

There's a first time for everything. And, even after years of being shuttled around the world in all kinds of aircraft, nothing prepared me for this. I mean, how do you approach a plane that can treat 71 per cent of the Earth's surface as its runway? This is the DHC-6 Twin Otter, a remarkable machine that's been around since the mid-'60s, and I had the chance to plonk my backside in one last month on a vacation with my wife. And frankly, I knew even before I got there that I wouldn't forget the seaplane anytime soon.

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There were around 15 passengers on the flight, and most of their faces featured expressions ranging between mild concern and full-blown alarm. I supp