A Cape Escape

THIS PARK SITUATED BETWEEN THE ARCHER AND COEN RIVERS ON QUEENSLAND’S CAPE YORK PENINSULA OFFERS A GREAT ESCAPE FOR THOSE WHO WANT NOTHING MORE THAN TO EXPLORE THE REGION’S FLORA AND FAUNA OH, AND THERE’S PLENTY FOR FOUR-WHEEL DRIVERS, FISHERMEN AND HISTORY BUFFS

- DICK EUSSEN

COEN is a laidback village where you can rest a little before continuing your journey north to the tip of the Cape York Peninsula. There are several worthy attractions about this busy little town that is home to a population of 330 souls. It has accommodation, a store and fuel, mechanical repairs, a police station and other facilities.

Like most other Cape York communities and roadhouses, Coen was originally a repeater telegraph station for the Overland Telegraph Line. It was of huge importance during WWII when Japanese forces bombed the islands to the north. There is a persistent legend that the enemy landed a small force from a submarine on the east coast of the mainland with orders to blow up the telegraph station but it's said that they got lost and perished in the rugged McIlwraith Range.

Cape York Heritage House has historic items from the old telegraph station and other memorabilia from the old days. The heritage centre provides plenty of information on the local history and the days of yore when the district was a booming gold-rush town. You can even explore some of the old mines in the surrounding bush, including the four-head stamper at the gold-mine site.

Continuing north is The Bend campground next to the Coen River. There are small pools and rapids here that are great for swimming, but the only facility is a drop toilet.

LIVING WITH NATURE

COEN is the gateway to the Oyala Thumotang National Park, formerly the Mungkan Kandju NP. The turn-off is 25km north of town and the park is situated between the Coen River to the south and the Archer River to the north. Both stop flowing at the end of the dry season, leaving small pools and some enduring waterholes, rich in both fish and crocodiles.