Phyllida Jay - PORTFOLIO ONE

Researcher and journalist Phyllida Jay's third book, Inspired by India, offers an extensive view of how Indian design and craftsmanship has been exploited, revered, and reimagined at different points in the global fashion history. AD excerpts key moments.

- Swareena Gurung

REEVES WETHERELL USING 30 FEET OF EMBROIDERED INDIAN SARI CLOTH AND MATCHING SKIRT, PART OF A FEATURE, IN THE 1948 EDITION OF LIFE MAGAZINE, ON WHITE SOCIETY WOMEN WEARING DIFFERENT NATIONAL DRESSES FROM ACROSS THE GLOBE. A CONCEPT THAT WOULD RAISE REASONABLE CONCERNS OF APPROPRIATION AND CULTURAL INSENSITIVITY TODAY.

AUDREY HEPBURN WEARING A NECKLACE INSPIRED BY INDIA FROM VAN CLEEF & ARPELS AND A GOWN BY GALANOS. (PHOTO BY RICHARD AVEDON, HARPER'S BAZAAR, 1961)

THIS SADDLE BAG (EMBROIDERED AT CHANAKYA, MUMBAI) FROM DIOR'S AUTUMN-WINTER 2018 READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTION PROVIDES A REPRESENTATIVE EXAMPLE OF HOW EMBROIDERY PRODUCED IN INDIA IS WOVEN IMMUTABLY-ALTHOUGH OFTEN INVISIBLY-INTO EUROPEAN LUXURY BRAND SUPPLY CHAINS. (GETTY IMAGES)

WOMEN'S CHINTZ JACKET, 1750-THIS FITTED JACKET WAS CUT TO DISPLAY THE SUMPTUOUS CHINTZ IMPORTED FROM THE COROMANDEL COAST TO FULL EFFECT. IN THE NETHERLANDS IN THE 18TH CENTURY, CHINTZ JACKETS WERE POPULAR FOR DAILY USE AND WORN AS PART OF TRADITIONAL COSTUME. (RIJKSMUSEUM, AMSTERDAM)

CHINTZ JACKETS, 1750-1800-MUCH EASIER TO LAUNDER THAN SILK OR WOOL, CHINTZ SOON BECAME POPULAR FOR BABY CLOTHING. (RIJKSMUSEUM, AMSTERDAM)