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Chile Queens

True West

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February - March 2022

"For two centuries, locals and visitors to the public plazas of San Antonio, Texas, dined on the famous fiery cuisine."

- By Sherry Monahan. Illustration by Bob Baze Bell

Chile Queens

San Antonio, Texas, became famous for its “Chile Queens” in the late 1800s and early 20th century, but historians believe the renowned local cuisine was prepared and sold publicly in the Mission City as early as 200 years ago. Over time, the locations changed, but in the mid- to late-1800s chile con carne stands at Military Plaza offered Mexican specialties. Spicy aromas scented the air, women called from their carts in Spanish and English to attract customers, and music filled the plaza. In this wondrous culinary scene people dined on tamales, enchiladas, eggs, beans and chile con carne.

While other Texas cities had chile con carne stands, none were like San Antonio’s. Journalists informed their readers that no trip to San Antonio would be complete without a stop at one of the chile queen stands. While the term “chile queen” conjured up tasty thoughts of visiting San Antonio, the term was also applied to fallen women of Hispanic descent. Fort Worth had its own “chile queen,” named Susie Barton, who worked in Hell’s Half Acre. Although Susie might have been spicy, it wasn’t becauseshe sold chiles…if you know what I mean.

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