Where Evolution Meets the Ancient

In a conversation with Paresh Patel, a third generation weaver and entrepreneur, Brinda Gill learns about the tradition of brocade weaving and the potential of Ashavali weaves...

- Brinda Gill

Ashavali is a technique of brocade weaving that has been practiced in various parts of Gujarat. Paresh Patel, a third-generation weaver, who grew up in Ridrol learnt the art of Ashavali by seeing his grandfather (Somabhai), uncle (Kiritbhai) and father (Vishnubhai) weaving such brocades first hand. “The scope of Ashavali weaves is vast. Ashavali is believed to be the oldest brocade weaving expression in India. It is said to have laid the foundation of brocade weaving as it migrated from Gujarat to Agra and Benares where weavers evolved the technique as per their skills, aesthetics and culture. Our definition of Ashavali brocade weaving is a twill weave with silk or zari yarns used as supplementary wefts to create motifs and patterns”, says Patel.

LIVING HERITAGE

The origins of Ashavali weaving go back a millennium to brocade weaving. The brocade weave was named Ashavali after the Kingdom of Ashaval. This kingdom was founded by Bhil King Asha Bhil, near present-day Ahmedabad, in around the 10th century. Ashaval pre-dated the rule of Sultan Ahmad Shah I, founder of Ahmedabad (in 1411) and the Gujarat Sultanate. “The weave is also referred to as Amdavadi given that the weaving took place in and around Ahmedabad. My grandfather Somabhai Patel used both names,” explains Patel.

In the past, brocades, woven with silk yarns and pure gold yarn, would be commissioned by royal families as yardage for stitched garments and sashes, sarees and skirts, and also as borders for drapes. In keeping with the glorious past and the dazzling beauty of the textile, Paresh named his label, Royal Brocades.