The Return of Lost Flavors

Two generations removed from the farm, we’re beginning to relish the foods that many of our forebears ate out of necessity.

- Tim Cebula

DECADES OF DEVOTION to convenient, mass-distributed, processed foods turned the national larder generic and bland. But by embracing local food sources, slow-food tenets, and ecologically sound methods, we’re rediscovering deliciousness from back in the day. Here’s a taste of nine new-old trends.

1/ BITTER FLAVORS There’s a bitter flavor boom under way thanks in part to bitters, the alcohol-based botanical concoctions, and a gorgeous riot of purple and green speckled chicories. Use them to add color and crunch to gratins and sautés.