THE EASY wildlife

When you've travelled halfway around the world to go bear spotting, the stakes are high. But at this five-star wilderness lodge, it's not even past breakfast before the bears come out to play.

- Lisa Perkovic

The boat leaves Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge’s dock at 9am. There’s a hush in the air, the engine dampened by mist curling down the mountains. The water stays calm, yet our hearts are aflutter.

We’re told Vancouver Island’s black bears don’t mind the light drizzle that starts to fall. After all, this is temperate rainforest country, with lush pine forests as far as the eye can see. Today, I can’t even spot the trees through the mist, surely less than ideal bear spotting conditions. Just as my heart starts to sink… the call goes out. Bear ahoy!

Our first Canadian black bear ambles along the water’s edge, unbothered as we sidle up to his empty beach. It’s 9.15am and Tofino’s bear watching tour boats haven’t even warmed up their engines so we have the cove to ourselves. Out on the prow, we’re soon too close for binoculars.

The sky clears as he noses rocks out of the way, digging at crustaceans uncovered by the tide. A crab darts off, but quick as a flash it’s scooped up in sharp claws. Satisfied chomping echoes across the water. It’s bear breakfast time as he bulks up after winter.

Ten minutes later, we’re inside the heated cabin of our launch doing our own chomping. Guides unpack chunky peanut butter bliss balls straight from the kitchen, along with Yeti mugs of coffee and hot chocolate. Tucked under blankets, binoculars at the ready, we’re onto the next cove.

Four more bears, two bald eagles circling above, a grey whale, sea otters bobbing with their babies tight on their chests, plus colonies of seals round out our Sights of the Sound tour. One of the lodge’s signature, inclusive experiences, it’s just about the easiest wildlife tour I’ve encountered. We tick the bear sightings off the list before the breakfast spread is even cleared back at the lodge.