PILGRIM'S PROGRESS

REACHING JAINISM'S HOLIEST SITE IN PALITANA, GUJARAT, IS ARDUOUS, BUT THE WALK UP TO SHATRUNJAYA IS NOT WITHOUT ITS SPIRITUAL REWARDS

- Words → EISHA GUPTA

SHASVAT SHAH WAS JUST SIX YEARS old when his parents took him on a pilgrimage to Shatrunjaya Hill in the dusty town of Palitana in Gujarat—one of Jainism's holiest sites. While his memories of that particular trip remain vague and hazy, Shah has returned every year since he became an adult to complete the pilgrimage. The last time the 41-year-old garment manufacturer undertook the walk was in January 2025.

Rising 580 m above sea level, Shatrunjaya is a sprawling complex of nearly 900 temples grouped in tunks (enclosures) along the hill's various ridges. All of them were built in stages across a millennium, a remarkable feat of engineering, devotion, and veneration.

Here, the first Tirthankara (supreme preacher) of Jainism, Rishabhanatha, also known as Adinatha, sanctified the complex. His temple remains the highlight of a pilgrim's ascent, which requires devotees to climb an astonishing 3,750 stone steps barefoot. To reach Shatrunjaya, pilgrims must undertake a strict fast and spiritual cleanse months before taking the first step.

"Many sadhus (holy men) and atmas (souls) have received liberation here. Among them are said to be 23 of the 24 Tirthankaras," said Shah to OT. "People should undertake the pilgrimage annually because only then can they find the inner peace and blessing to achieve the liberation of their soul."

PREPARING FOR THE JOURNEY