OF TIDES & TIME

ISLAND-HOP THROUGH ESTONIA'S WESTERN ISLES TO APPRECIATE THE BENEFITS OF SLOW TRAVEL IN THIS UNTOUCHED STRETCH OF THE COUNTRY, WHERE SOVIET HISTORY, FOLKLORE AND NATURE WORSHIP CREATE A RICH TAPESTRY OF LIFE

- LORNA PARKES

On the island of Kinhu, guide Mare Mätas runs sidecar tours in her vintage motorcycle

IN WESTERN ESTONIA, DRAMA UNFOLDS NOT IN THE LANDSCAPES, BUT IN THE STORIES THAT BUBBLE BENEATH THEIR SURFACE.

My first inkling of this comes when I board a car ferry called Toll the Great, bound for the island of Muhu. The modest strip of land I find myself gliding towards is so flat and featureless it looks like it’s been ironed onto the water, whereas the tale of Toll — mythical strongman, sauna master and hero of Saaremaa, an island connected to Muhu by bridge — has all the theatrics of a rollercoaster epic. I imagine Toll towering in his farmer’s garb, muscles bulging, as he rushes through the waves to help embattled sailors in stormy weather. Or wielding an iron axe as he singlehandedly fends off encroaching armies and foreign bullies.

Armed with Toll’s legends — which are pasted onto the wall of the boat like everyday adverts — I drive off the ferry gangplank an hour later ready for adventure. With five days in front of me, my plan is to island-hop, dropping anchor in Muhu, Saaremaa, Abruka and Kihnu to explore the unique cultures and common histories of their communities.

Sparkling rosé wine at Muhu Veinitalu farmhouse winery, served with smoked trout and traditional black bread called leib;