Wines of While

Following a change of ownership, this pioneering natural wine bar is both honouring its past and preparing for a promising future, writes MAX VEENHUYZEN.

- MAX VEENHUYZEN

WHEN WINES OF WHILE opened in 2018, the natural wine bar was a hit, not least because it was Perth’s first venue to focus exclusively on organically farmed wines. But even for those unmoved by Loire Valley chenin, owner Sam Winfield’s farmhouse cooking was another draw; ditto the bar's electric, standing-room-only atmosphere, when it hosted guest chefs and winemakers.

Wines - as it’s referred to locally - didn’t just shake things up out west: it turned heads nationally and was named GT's Bar of the Year in 2019.

In 2023, fans had more reason to celebrate when Winfield had found new owners to continue what he started: (re) enter stage left, Emma Pegrum and Tom van Beem. She's a prolific Perth creative. He’s a wine importer as well as Wines’ opening bar manager returning to where it all started.