Best in class

The top drops to keep an eye out for on wine lists (and why they're worth the splurge)

- SAMANTHA PAYNE

THE TASK OF A SOMMELIER IS NEVER EASY - FROM short and snappy bar wine lists to epic tomes filled with pages of back vintage wines. The most talented of sommeliers will balance a diverse list of classic wines with wines that are more modern in style, a mix of price points and flavours. Among these acts of curation, an artful sommelier will also sprinkle in a few gems for customers who are in the mood to go all out. They might be rare wines, cult favourites or the wines they fought tooth and nail to list (or sneak into each other's restaurants to drink them on days off if we missed out on an allocation). And for wine-lovers, this is one of the reasons why dining out is so instrumental; it's the only way to try these hard-won wines that you won't be able to get your hands on elsewhere.

In the mood to explore? Leanne Altmann, beverage director for Trader House (Cutler & Co., Supernormal, Gimlet, Marion, et al) says the secret to uncovering a hidden gem on a wine list is to engage with the sommelier, "They're the ones who know the list best." Come armed with examples of grape varieties and regions you enjoy, such as Yarra Valley chardonnay or pinot noir from Gevrey-Chambertin. This conversation gives the somm a starting point to guide you to something special.