ATTICA

Ben Shewry and his team prove why Attica is still as relevant as ever, writes MICHAEL HARDEN.

- MICHAEL HARDEN

The first three courses you eat with your hands, then you go to the pub. It’s possibly not the script everybody would expect from one of the country’s most lauded and expensive ($720 for two, before a glance at the drinks list) restaurants. But it represents classic current-era Attica, where owner-chef Ben Shewry includes big learning moments (particularly with native Australian ingredients, Indigenous culture and sustainable agriculture) but also makes the 10-plus courses both fun and funny. He never forgets the deliciousness part of the equation either, which is why we’re still paying attention to this semi-suburban spot almost two decades after it opened.