A perfect retreat

Jeremy Ellwood discovers that Penha Longa's 14th-century monastic heritage really does create a sanctuary-like feel amid five-star luxury

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I'd been to Penha Longa in Portugal's Sintra region before on a media launch 20 years ago when I edited the equipment pages, but when I stepped through the entrance this time I recalled little. I was struck by its grandness, suggesting that it had either undergone a renovation (certainly), that I had only played and not stayed last time (quite possibly) and that my memory isn't what it was (definitely).

But after three nights this July with my wife and daughter, I doubt I'll forget it again for many reasons, not least my first ever (I think) Michelin-starred dining experience in the extraordinary LAB by Sergi Arola restaurant.

More of that later, but first the golf, and I had played what is now the Atlantic Championship course before, with clear recall (incredible, I know) of the uphill 1st and memorable closing trio. But I'd not tackled the Monastery nine-holer, which was where I started early next morning, driving past some of the resort's rich monastic heritage to the par-3 opener, then surprising myself by finding the green with a 6-iron hire club (very good Titleist T200 irons) in a three-club wind.