At more than 2,000m above sea level, Lishan is home to the indigenous Atayal people, who are revitalising the Taiwanese spot in fresh ways

At more than 2,000m above sea level, Lishan is home to the indigenous Atayal people, who are revitalising the Taiwanese spot in fresh ways

- Wendy Ng

LISHAN, Taiwan - Lishan, the most remote and mystical part of Taiwan I have visited, had a special place in the heart of Taiwan's former president, Mr Chiang Kai-shek—as it does mine.

In the 1960s and 1970s, he visited Lishan frequently during his inspection tours of the Central Cross-Island Highway, the first road in Taiwan to cut through its central mountain range and connect the east and west of the island.

Lishan's golden era started from the 1960s, and the opening of the highway in 1960 was a pivotal moment in its history.

Increased accessibility accelerated the area's economic development, especially in the agriculture industry. Mr Chiang had regular retreats in Lishan, staying in two mountain residences, Daguan Pavilion and Lishan Guest House, where he hosted dignitaries.

At more than 2,000m above sea level, Lishan is blessed with prime conditions for growing temperate fruit—in particular, snow pears, honey apples and peaches, known as the area's "three treasures".

Yet, development ground to a halt after the 921 Earthquake in 1999, one of Taiwan's worst natural disasters of the last century. It killed around 2,400 people and rendered the highway impassable, among other infrastructural damage.

The local economy faced severe disruptions. After years of repairs and reconstruction, with long delays caused by natural disasters, the highway has mostly reopened, allowing easy access to Lishan once more.

During my three-day trip in October 2023, I got a glimpse of a lesser-known Taiwan, shrouded from the public eye for over two decades. From the back of a local's car, the rugged mountain road is marked with sharp curves and steep ascents.

With meandering rivers, plunging valleys, cavernous tunnels and majestic dams and reservoirs, this thrilling route is more than a mountain pass. It is a storied passage through history and time, and a lifeline for Lishan residents.