Sleepy Hollow

Naukuchiatal-the lake dedicated to Lord Brahma-makes for a tranquil getaway in the dreamy hills of Kumaon

- AMIT DIXIT

A cluster of mountain lakes in Kumaon, within easy reach from Delhi, has bequeathed India its own Lake District-and it brims with surprises.

Most well-known of the waterbodies is Nainital, a victim of its own popularity and, hence, a tourist trap at the best of times. Nearby Bhimtal has been quick to jump on to the tourist bandwagon, although it's not without its charms. Most untouched of them all, perhaps, is Sattal, which is really seven lakes wrapped in one. Set among dense woods with no human habitation nearby, it has managed to retain its sylvan appeal. But most beguiling of them all has tobe Naukuchiatal, lying at the end of the road from Bhimtal, seemingly forgotten by time. Set in tranquil, wooded surroundings, the deceptively placid waters of the deepest lake in these partsare privy to many secrets.Legend has it that the lake of the nine corners was formed when Lord Brahma performed penance here-and there's a temple to the god here. Legend also has it that if you can spy all nine corners of the lake, you'll be truly blessed.

Naukuchia House, a spiffy new property perched above the lake with peerless views of the surrounding countryside, has all the makings of the perfect getaway from the tumult of Delhi. Heading out early to avoid the crowds that vend their way to nearby Kainchi Dham-the seat of the late Neem Karoli Baba, made famous by visitors like Steve Jobs and Virat and Anushka Sharma-I arrivein time for a sumptuous breakfast. There is everything from Parma ham to parathas, but I am partial to the baked yoghurt in espresso cups, reminiscent of bhapadoi.