Holding Fort in the Happiest Country

Traditionally built on strategic locations, Bhutan's elaborate dzong architecture blends function, aesthetics, and cultural symbolism

- TEJA LELE

With its lofty five-storeyed central tower, Haa Dzong looms large. Built in 1895, Wangchuck Lo Dzong, as it is formally known, was rebuilt in 1915 after it was destroyed by a fire. The whitewashed walls create the perfect backdrop for the intricately designed wooden balconies and colourful artwork. "The Bhutanese word 'dzong' translates to 'fortress' or 'castle'," says guide Tshewang Phunstso. The majestic dzongs serve as the religious, military, administrative, and social centres of their district.

Traditionally built on strategic locations like hilltops or the confluence of rivers to provide natural defence and command views of the surrounding areas, dzong architecture is massive in style: the walls embrace a veritable maze—courtyards, temples, corridors, offices, classrooms, and accommodation for monks. Bhutanese dzong architecture reached its apogee in the 17th century under Ngawang Namgyal, the 1st Zhabdrung Rinpoche, who is said to have relied on visions and omens to site each of the dzongs. In 1629, he built the Simtokha Dzong, the oldest surviving dzong in Bhutan.