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Stories of Ladakh, Served Warm

The Morning Standard

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March 19, 2026

THERE are days when Delhi feels like it is holding its breath.

- VERNIKA AWAL

Stories of Ladakh, Served Warm

This March had begun in that mood. The sun arrived too early, too sharp, as though summer had skipped the courtesy of a gentle prelude. And then, almost theatrically, the skies softened.

Rain fell. A calming wash that seemed to settle tempers and cool the city's pulse. Across Delhi-NCR, there was a collective exhale.

It was in this softened light that I found myself driving to Gurygram, to The Kitchens, a sprawling, premium dining address that gathers multiple restaurants under one roof. Within it sits Anjeer, a space that feels deliberate in its sharpness. There is nothing excessive here. The design is clean, almost assertive, allowing the food to speak in a language that is rooted yet contemporary, without slipping into the easy crutch of fusion.

On this particular afternoon, however, the restaurant was not merely serving its own menu. It was playing host to something far more intimate. Kunzes Angmo, through her initiative Artisanal Alchemy, was presenting a two day pop up that traced the culinary memory of Ladakh.

Not the Ladakh of postcards and itineraries, but the Ladakh of homes, kitchens, and inherited knowledge.

It struck me how often we reduce places to their most photographed versions. Ladakh, for many, exists as Pangong Lake or as a frame from a Bollywood film.

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