A Shore Thing

Beyond its virgin beaches and migrating whales, an Australian island keeps centuries of magic and knowledge through its women and their age-old stories

- POOJA NAIK

At the edge of Brown Lake, a sacred women's site reveals itself slowly.

Generations of the island's people, known as Yoolooburrabeesand and sea people belong to the Nunukul, Goenpul and Ngugi tribes once gathered at these waters of North Stradbroke Island, Australia. The place is sheltered by tea trees prized for their antiseptic and healing properties. "When you swim here, your skin and hair feel cleansed and moisturised. If you've got skin conditions, come daily it clears up," guide and local Elisha Kissick says, encouraging visitors to skim their fingers across the oil-slick surface. Beneath, silica-rich sand works as a natural exfoliant.

As the wind sharpens and rain threatens, she shares a dreamtime warning her grandmother once told her. When the waters grew rough, children were made to sit on the shore-the Rainbow Serpent, Kabal, was at play. "Go in, and she would pull you under," Kissick recalls, then smiles.