guide An expert's to London's vintage

From treasure troves in Portobello Road to Battersea car boots, by Teo van den Broeke

- Teo van den Broeke

It’s no exaggeration to say fashion is in the midst of a meltdown. With prices soaring — HSBC reports a 52 per cent rise in the average cost of luxury goods over the past five years — and the planet drowning in fast fashion waste, it’s becoming increasingly clear that an intervention is needed. Our saviour? Vintage.

“People are really starting to understand vintage is the most creative way to shop,” says former Vogue editor and self-styled Pioneer of Second Hand Fashion, Bay Garnett. “It’s about seeking things out and learning what you love — it’s also sustainable. But for me, it’s really about the fact that it’s a much cooler, more independent way to find your own style and pieces you love.”

Lucky for us, London is one of the world’s greatest cities for second-hand treasures — and leading stores such as North Kensington’s Rellik and Good Vintage in Covent Garden are thriving, reporting an increase in sales and demand. It looks to only be heading up: per Statista, the global market for pre-loved clothes was worth some £148 billion in 2023, with that value expected to rise by at least £75 billion in 2026.

“Sales at Rellik continue to grow,” says Fiona Stuart, owner and founder of Rellik, which recently celebrated 25 years and is as beloved by its everyday customers as it is stylists, looking for show pieces in which to dress their clients.

“The shop was deeply affected by Covid, when we also started selling online. We’ve seen the business grow by 55 per cent since 2021,” she adds.