SHUCK AND AWE

Croatia expert Mary Novakovich takes a small-ship cruise to the Balkan country to sample its delightful oysters and wine

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Goodness knows I've eaten enough oysters in my time. But going on a boat to a rocky islet in Mali Ston Bay, and being fed oyster after oyster on a shaded terrace was definitely out of the ordinary. It was the first day of our seven-night, small-ship cruise in Croatia, and this culinary treat set the scene for the week to come.

Dozens of visits haven't blunted my appetite for Croatia and its cuisine, so this Cruise Croatia journey, with its focus on food and wine, got me excited. I also wanted to find lesser-known spots for our evening meals on this half-board cruise: places that showed the breadth of Croatian gastronomy without having to spend a fortune.

Even before we set off from Dubrovnik, the anticipation was building. We sat on our terrace at Rixos Premium Dubrovnik, already feeling as if we were at sea. Handy for both the Old Town and Gruž cruise port, classy Rixos itself resembled a stately cruise liner built into the hillside, complete with its pool terrace, enormous spa and two waterside restaurants.

Our Cruise Croatia trip was going to be a more intimate affair. With only 36 passengers, the elegant My Wish would give us a luxurious way to explore Dalmatia. It's immensely comfortable, too, with more than half of its 18 cabins featuring balconies. After sailing around Dubrovnik's city walls, we docked in the small port of Slano, before being driven to Mali Ston. This was shellfish central, home to beds of delicately sweet Ston oysters and plump mussels. It's where members of the Šare family, who run the popular Bota Šare group of restaurants, take guests to dine. Utter heaven.