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Chhatris of Gangarsauli: Echoes of History in Morning Light

The Daily Guardian

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May 22, 2025

Traveling is not just visiting places, but also living and learning every moment. "Jo Beet Gaya Hai Wo Ab Daur Na Aayega," which means whatever passes shall never come back. My series of continuous journeys to explore the unique art-culture-tradition of the country and the state has reached Gangarsauli village this time. While going from Bharatpur to Govardhan Ji via Kumher, the huge beautiful dome-shaped chhatri built outside Gangarsauli village seems to be humming this song from the film 'Tahalka' repeatedly for years.

- PRAKASH CHANDRA SHARMA

Chhatris of Gangarsauli: Echoes of History in Morning Light

"Jo Beet Gaya Hai Wo Ab Daur Na Aayega". While going to Govardhan Ji, as soon as we left Kumher town, the magnetic attraction of these chhatris, which looked like the huge army of a Chhatrapati king from a distance and were displaying the valour of the past, forced us to deviate from our pre-planned travel route. Now, with the curiosity to know about those chhatris which looked as firm and steadfast as the Himalayas, we left the main road and proceeded on a rough-paved path. As we were coming closer to the chhatris, it felt as if the chhatris were calling us like an old aunt to tell us the story of some forgotten history. On the way, we stopped the car and wanted to know about the chhatris from a shepherd. He told us that he was from the same Gangarsauli village but expressed his ignorance about the chhatris.

After walking for about a kilometer, we were standing in the courtyard of chhatris which were as huge as the Himalayas. In a room-like hut near the courtyard, an old Mahatma was meditating in a meditative state. We went into the room and bowed down to the Mahatma and expressed our curiosity about the chhatris. The old Mahatma first tested us with his crooked eyes and asked us to first go around the chhatris and then again got engrossed in meditation.

The attraction of the glimpse of the morning sun: The main dome of the chhatris seemed to be spreading the rosy glow of the morning sun on the huge platform made of red stone. After circumambulating the platform, we entered the main dome through the eastern gate. The main dome was in the shape of a lotus leaf in which Lord Shiva was seated with his family. It seemed as if these idols were storing hundreds of years old history in themselves. Coming out of the dome, we once again went near the Mahatma and bowed down overwhelmed. This time the old Mahatma gestured us to sit on the sackcloth kept nearby and started narrating the tale of history on his own.

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