Night lights and dizzy heights

Hong Kong surprises Layla Nicholson on every level, from tea to treats, and city life to greenery

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Have you ever wondered what would happen if the set of Jurassic Park and NYC had a baby?

Regardless of whether that thought has gone through your head, the answer is, of course, Hong Kong - the eclectic outcome of the merge of eastern and western cultures cradled by a prehistoric landscape.

After a comfortable 12-hour flight with Finnair from my connection at Helsinki, the Airbus A350 descended over skyscrapers seemingly borne out of Midas’ touch, thrusting up by green mountains and atmospherically wrapped together by a slow roll of mist.

Passengers have to walk through a temperature scanner when leaving the airport - that and the wall of humidity is certainly a combination to put your heart rate through its paces.

The journey to explore Hong Kong begins - and so does the fight to not be overcome by jet lag.

Word on the street

It's clear I won't be lacking in views during my time here, everywhere you look there's a sight to intrigue - even out of the window of my base for the first part of the trip, the four-star Dorsett Wanchai hotel.

I'm hypnotised by the brilliant absurdity of a road filled with red taxis, rows of skyscrapers, exotic foliage and the Happy Valley Racecourse. It's like being in a video-game map.

The racecourse costs HK$10 (£1) to get in, so a bargain night out. The catch? Wednesdays are the new Fridays in Hong Kong, though I spot the golden arches of a McDonald's, so a pint can be offset by a burger if needed.

The morning after, my hotel proves to be the perfect location to step out into the commercial Central and residential Sheung Wan districts to explore the entertainment, shopping and arts scene.

Looking up at the never-ending storeys, I spot washing draped outside apartment windows, a testament to their small size and the sheer confidence of airing your smalls to the world below.