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Haute and truly mighty

Sunday Express

|

September 21, 2025

French Haute-Savoie has mountains, a glacier and... melted cheese, says Alastair McNeill

When Dr Victor Frankenstein visited Evian in the French Alps, it did not end well with his young bride dramatically killed by the monster on their wedding night. However, my recent visit to the town passed without incident.

Today's Evian, famed for its world-renowned mineral water, exclusive resort and superb location on the southern shores of Lake Geneva, bears no resemblance to the fictional world of Mary Shelley's Gothic novel.

The small town burst on to the world stage when its spring was discovered in the late 18th century and its apparent health-giving properties were celebrated. Since then, Evian has been a favourite haunt of the rich and famous, and played host to the G8 summit in June 2003.

Today the luxury Evian Resort can boast a clientele that has included Liverpool FC and Germany's 2016 football team.

Set in 47 acres of lush greenery, it comprises no less than three hotels: the four-star Ermitage and La Verniaz, and the pièce de résistance, the palatial five-star Hotel Royal. My room in Hotel Ermitage had a fantastic view over the resort and the lake where a ferry links Evian to Lausanne in Switzerland.

It was decorated with a pop of colour, its bathroom replete with L'Occitane toiletries.

Later on, the terrace restaurant La Table was a delightful spot for an alfresco dinner. I enjoyed the pea tartlet as a starter followed by wild garlic risotto accompanied by red Savoy wine and praline dessert.

Fine dining can be enjoyed in a number of resort restaurants including Michelin-starred Les Fresques. There is also an organic kitchen garden, 18-hole golf course and academy, tennis courts, spas, swimming pools - including an infinity pool and free kids' club (from babies up to teenagers).

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