The politics and the timeless appeal of 'blue gold'

An ongoing show investigates the history and significance of the natural indigo dye in fashion and design 

- Pooja Singh

Over the past two decades, textile designer Shelly Jyoti has been studying the natural indigo dye, one of the world's most ancient dyes, with roots dating back to the second millennium BC, exploring its history and relevance in the present day. She's given shape to her understanding in the form of textiles and installations, among othersall reflecting themes like forced labour and sustainable practices.

About 40 of the works, created between 2009-23, are currently on display at Chicago's South Asia Institute, as part of her show, The Blue Gold, A Captivating Exploration Of Indigo Dyeing Traditions And Colonial Trade. The show is travelling to India early next year.